Vegan Guide to Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, and Beyond

Unveiling the best plant-based restaurants and hotels in the region!

Embark on a remarkable journey with us as we uncover the secret treasures and culinary wonders of two incredible regions of Italy: Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna. As passionate plant-based food and travel enthusiasts, we understand the challenges faced by vegan travelers when searching for great eating experiences and vegan-friendly accommodations. That’s why we’ve dedicated ourselves to exploring these beautiful regions in Italy, curating a selection of the best vegan spots just for you. Get ready to indulge in the most amazing plant-based food and create unforgettable memories with our personalized vegan guide.

Our adventure through the beautiful cities of Bologna, Siena, Florence, Montepulciano, Greve in Chianti, the Maremma, and Pietrasanta was an absolute blast of unforgettable culinary experiences and captivating sights. 

Bologna

Our journey began in Bologna, a city renowned for its vibrant food scene and gastronomic prowess. Stepping onto its cobblestone streets, we were immediately swept away. Bologna’s rich culinary heritage unfolded before our eyes, inviting us to explore its vibrant markets and savor the region’s traditional dishes with a vegan twist.

Il Rovescio

As we ventured into the heart of Bologna, we discovered Il Rovescio, a hidden gem, located in the buzzing student area of the city. The restaurant is dedicated to promoting a sustainable and vegan-friendly dining experience. Excitedly, we entered the restaurant and were immediately welcomed by the warm, cozy, and inviting atmosphere. The menu boasts an array of plant-based creations, expertly crafted to highlight the flavors of local, seasonal, and organic ingredients. While Il Rovescio also offers meat options, we were delighted to find an extensive selection of creative vegan dishes that left us wanting more. From the first bite to the last, we relished the harmonious combination of flavors and textures. What truly stood out as well is their commitment to natural wines, offering the perfect accompaniment to your meal. It was an experience that left us with a renewed appreciation for the artistry and sustainability of plant-based cuisine.

Via Pietralata, 75, 40122 Bologna
Tuesday to Friday – 12:30 to 14:30 and 19:30 to 22:30
Saturday to Sunday – 12:30 to 15:00

Botanica Lab

Our culinary exploration in Bologna continued at Botanica Lab, the first fully plant-based restaurant of this meat-loving city. Opened by owner Anna a couple of years ago right in the city center, this is a truly innovative restaurant that celebrates the diversity and abundance of plant-based ingredients. Nestled in a charming sidestreet of the center, the restaurant exudes a modern and chic ambiance. As we perused the menu, we were captivated by the seasonally inspired dishes, each a testament to the chef’s creativity and dedication to plant-based cuisine. The attention to detail was evident in every plate, as we marveled at the exquisite presentation and harmonious flavor combinations. From vibrant salads bursting with freshness to comforting dishes that celebrated local ingredients, Botanica Lab surpassed our expectations. It was a celebration of flavors, textures, and the transformative power of plants.

Via Battibecco 4/C, Bologna
Tuesday to Sunday – 12:30 to 15:00 and 19:30 to 22:00

Arezzo

Fattoria La Vialla

After our delightful time in Bologna we were in for a very special treat. Our long-time friends from Fattoria La Vialla had invited us to spend a week at the Fattoria to truly discover the amazing farm and agriturismo that lies behind their incredible products. For those of you, who have been following us for some time, you might remember that we had the wonderful opportunity to try La Vialla’s delicatessen at the Speisekammer (pantry) in Rothrist earlier this year. After that, we couldn’t wait to explore the place where it all began 45 years ago. 

Fattoria La Vialla is a farm like no other. It offers the best, biodynamic, Demeter-certified Italian delicacies – right at your doorstep. Situated in the heart of Tuscany, about an hour from Florence in the region of Chianti, this incredible organic farm has been producing a fantastic range of the best olive oils, wines, antipasti, sauces, but also organic food supplements, and cosmetics for the past 45 years. Adhering to the highest Demeter standards Fattoria La Vialla works in harmony with the land. Their natural and sustainable delicatessen, most of them vegan, are exclusively available via their webshop and catalog for delivery or in their pantries. But the best treat is for sure a visit to the farm for a lunch and a tasting or ideally a proper stay to fully savor this unique place.

We had an incredible time here, spending a week in one of their romantic rusticos, which are spread out over the property. Strolling through the hills, enjoying farm fresh produce every day, visiting their fascinating oil mill and wine cellars, and meeting new friends. It was a true sanctuary and we cannot recommend a stay at Fattoria La Vialla highly enough. Trust us, this is a unique opportunity to connect with the land and see an incredible biodynamic farm that works in harmony with nature. You can read all about our week here.

Monday to Friday – 10:00 to 18:00 (from April to October – ideally with prior reservation, especially for a vegan lunch).

For a longer stay at the agriturismo, please contact the farm via fattoria@lavialla.it

Siena

Orto e un Quarto

After the truly blissful week at Fattoria La Vialla, we set off for the captivating city of Siena. Famous for its medieval architecture and vibrant history, Siena also offers an absolute gem slightly outside the city in the hills overlooking this magnificent jewel of Tuscany. Upon recommendation, we found Orto e un Quarto, a true culinary heaven of locavore cooking. This extraordinary restaurant offers a fully vegan fine dining experience that seamlessly blends art and gastronomy. Run by the dynamic duo of Ela, the genius in the kitchen, and Marco, the sommelier, and manager, Orto e un Quarto captured our hearts and palates. We first received a wonderful tour of their garden, out of which Ela picked the most beautiful seasonal vegetables and flowers for our meal. The ever-changing menu showcases an array of dishes crafted with seasonal, organic vegetables straight from the soil. Each plate was a masterpiece, reflecting Ela’s artistic flair and commitment to sustainable and ethical dining. Marco’s expertise in wine pairing added a delightful touch, elevating our dining experience to new heights. We left Orto e un Quarto feeling inspired, having witnessed the magic that can be created when culinary creativity and ethical dining converge.

Strada di Montalbuccio 118 – 53100 – Siena
Tuesday to Sunday – 19:30 to 22:30
Saturday to Sunday additionally – 12:30 to 14:30
Lunch on other days is possible upon request

Florence

Our journey continued to Florence, a city steeped in history and brimming with artistic masterpieces. Florence offered us not only a feast for the eyes but also a tantalizing journey through its diverse culinary landscape. We eagerly explored the city’s vibrant streets, discovering hidden gastronomic treasures that revolutionize the plant-based game.

La Leggenda dei Frati

One such treasure is La Leggenda dei Frati, a Michelin-starred restaurant that captured our attention with its renowned vegetarian fine dining menu. Nestled in a historical setting, the enchanting gardens of Villa Bardini, the restaurant exudes elegance and refinement. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by a warm and attentive staff and culinary genius Filippo Saporito, who guided us through a gastronomic journey like no other. Filippo, the mastermind behind La Leggenda dei Frati demonstrated his culinary prowess through each carefully crafted dish. The vegetarian menu, which can be made vegan upon prior request, showcases the chefs’ expertise in transforming the very best local vegetables into culinary marvels. The harmonious blend of flavors, textures, and exquisite presentation left us in awe and the accompanying wines were a testament to their exquisite cellar. La Leggenda dei Frati offers a truly immersive experience, where tradition meets innovation, and artistry embraces culinary excellence.

Villa Bardini – Costa San Giorgio 6/A – Florence
Tuesday to Sunday – 19:30 to 22:00
Friday to Sunday – 12:30 to 14:00

Su Guan

In Florence, we also discovered Su Guan, a Chinese-inspired plant-based haven that captivated us with its Buddhist roots and flavors. Tucked away in the city, Su Guan offers a dining experience that transported us to the vegan heart of Chinese cuisine. The mother-and-son duo works tirelessly to create a menu that honors their Buddhist beliefs and celebrates the incredible flavors of plant-based ingredients. Each dish is a testament to their dedication and passion for vegan cuisine. The freshness of the ingredients, the delicate balance of flavors, and the authentic culinary techniques used in Su Guan’s kitchen are a revelation. Our visit to Su Guan followed an insider tip and turned out to be an unexpected gem that left an indelible mark on our culinary journey.

Via della Scala, 22/R, 50123 Firenze FI
Monday to Sunday – 11:30 to 15:00 and 18:00 to 23:30

New Bridge Pizza

Another noteworthy stop on our Florence adventure was New Bridge Pizza, a bustling pizzeria located in the heart of the city. As we entered, the aroma of freshly baked pizzas greeted us and the modernly designed restaurant was brimming. New Bridge Pizza offers a range of fully vegan pizzas, complete with plant-based cheese and meat replacements as well as gluten-free options. The lively atmosphere, coupled with the mouthwatering aromas, creates an unforgettable experience. We relished each bite of their awesome pizzas, marveling at the perfect base and the creativity of the toppings. New Bridge Pizza shows that you don’t need to miss out on a perfect pizza experience as a plant-based traveler in Florence. Instead, you are in for an absolute treat!

Via dell’ Oriuolo, 26r, 50122 Firenze FI
Monday to Sunday – 11:00 to 22:30

#RAW Vegan Firenze

Another highlight in Florence, situated in the student quarters of the buzzing city is #Raw, a culinary delight dedicated particularly to raw vegan cuisine. This vibrant restaurant and cafe embraces the philosophy of nourishing the body with fresh and unprocessed plant-based foods. The menu features an array of inventive dishes that highlight the natural flavors and textures of raw ingredients. From fresh smoothies to decadent raw desserts bursting with flavor, #Raw presents a delightful fusion of health and indulgence. It also serves as a hub for the local vegan community, fostering a sense of camaraderie and connection over delicious, nourishing food.

Via Sant’Agostino, 11B, 50125 Firenze FI
Tuesday – 11:00 to 20:00
Wednesday to Saturday – 10:00 to 20:00
Sunday – 10:00 to 17:00

Accademia del Caffe Espresso

Amidst our culinary adventures in Florence, we also found time for a very special coffee experience. Our visit to the La Marzocco Accademia Espresso was mindblowing. It features an incredible museum dedicated to the famous coffee machine maker, La Marzocco as well as to all things coffee. As coffee enthusiasts, we were excited to explore the world of coffee and learn more about the history behind these iconic machines. Our tour guide and host, Lavinia proved to be an absolute treasure trove of knowledge! We were delighted to discover that the museum also offers a super tasty and creative vegan lunch. Energized by the delicious meal, we participated in a vegan latte art workshop, which we had booked in advance, immersing ourselves in the art of crafting beautiful designs atop our espresso creations. Not as easy as it sounds, as we found out when delving deep into the science of latte art, learning that plant-based milks behave slightly differently. That having been said, it is absolutely possible to create mesmerizing designs and the whole workshop was a delightful and educational experience that deepened our appreciation for the art and science of coffee.

Via Bolognese, 68, 50014 Pian di San Bartolo-trespiano FI
Monday, Wednesday and Friday – 10:00 to 17:00
Tuesday and Thursday – 10:00 to 12:30 and 14:00 to 17:00

Montepulciano

Fattoria San Martino

Leaving Florence behind, we ventured into the rolling hills of Tuscany, where the charming town of Montepulciano awaited. Here, we found a sanctuary of plant-based hospitality at Fattoria San Martino, a fully vegan biodynamic hotel nestled amidst picturesque vineyards. As we entered the beautifully appointed rooms, each adorned with artistic touches by owner Karin, we felt a sense of tranquility and connection to nature. The hotel’s commitment to sustainability extends to its culinary offerings. We indulged in a sumptuous plant-based breakfast, savoring freshly baked bread, local fruits, and homemade spreads. In the evening, we had the pleasure of dining at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, where the menu is created afresh each day based on the season and the offerings of their own garden. The Dutch-Italian owners, Karin and Antonio, love to share their passion for biodynamic farming and sustainability, enriching our experience with their knowledge and warmth. Fattoria San Martino is a true haven of peace and nourishment, leaving us feeling rejuvenated and deeply connected to the land.

Via di Martiena, 3, 53045 Montepulciano SI
Hotel hours: Monday to Sunday – 9:30 to 22:30
Dinner (also for outside guests upon prior reservation – 19:00 to 21:30 

Villa Sant Anna

During our stay in Montepulciano, we couldn’t resist the allure of Villa S. Anna, a fully vegan vineyard that boasts not only incredible wines but also an amazing vegan tasting experience. The fifth-generation owner, Simona, welcomed us with open arms, sharing her family’s history and the deep-rooted traditions of winemaking. With each sip, we tasted the fruits of their labor, appreciating the unique flavors and characteristics of their vegan wines, which are amongst the best Montepulciano wines we ever tasted. Villa S. Anna’s commitment to sustainable practices and their female-led winery, affectionately known as “the pink winery,” added an extra layer of inspiration to our experience. It was a true privilege to explore their vineyard, learn about their winemaking philosophy, and witness firsthand the passion and dedication that goes into each bottle. Tourguide Katarina was an absolute gem and the vegan bites to accompany the tasting make this a must-visit winery for all vegan wine lovers.

Via della Resistenza, 143, 53045 Abbadia SI
Monday to Friday – 9:00 to 18:15 (wine tasting upon prior reservation)

Greve in Chianti

Querciabella

From Montepulciano, we ventured to Greve in Chianti, a picturesque town famous for its incredible Chianti wines, that beckoned us with its lush vineyards and scenic beauty. Our visit to Querciabella, a fully vegan and biodynamic winery, offered a glimpse into the future of winemaking. Guided by the visionary approach of second-generation owner, vegan investor, and animal rights activist, Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni, Querciabella demonstrates the potential of sustainable viticulture and the art of crafting exceptional wines without compromising on ethics. As Sebastiano took over the vineyard from his father, he first fully committed himself to making it biodynamic. He started making fully vegan wines over twenty-five years ago. Their proprietary biodynamic method in the vineyards has been fully vegan as well for almost fifteen years. It uses a complex system of crop rotation between the vines, plant-based manures, and mulches as well as special flowers to ward off pests. 

We fully immersed ourselves in the world of biodynamic-veganic farming, exploring the vineyards and gaining insight into the holistic practices that nurture the grapes. A wine tasting allowed us to savor the fruits of their labor, as we marveled at the complexity and depth of flavors in each glass. Querciabella is not only an incredible vineyard, but it also receives accolades upon accolades each year, proving that it is more than possible to create exceptional wines this way. Our visit also included a joint cooking workshop with the team of Querciabella using the best seasonal vegetables and the incredible gluten-free pasta Bontasana, another one of Sebastiano’s ventures, which makes quite honestly some of the finest pasta we ever tasted. Our stay at Querciabella was a transformative experience that deepened our appreciation for the delicate balance between nature, ethics, and winemaking, leaving us deeply impressed. 

Via di Barbiano, 17, 50022 Greve in Chianti FI
Visits upon request

Ristoro di Lamole

If you travel this way, make sure to stop by Ristoro Di Lamole. Situated in the hills above Greve, about half an hour’s drive from Querciabella, they offer the very best sunset views in the area as well as some incredible food. For the vegan menu ask the winery to call on your behalf or just give them a ring yourself and ask for the plant-based Querciabella special menu. Trust us, you will be blown away. And suffice it to say, the Querciabella wines accompanying our meal were a match made in heaven.

Via Lamole, 6, Frazione, 50022 Lamole FI
Monday to Sunday – 12:30 to 14:30 and 19:00 to 22:00

Maremma

Fattoria La Maliosa

On our journey to the wild and less visited coastal region of Tuscany, in Maremma, we had the pleasure to stay at Fattoria La Maliosa. This is a vegan biodynamic vineyard and olive oil farm that offers a unique “stars box” experience. Nestled in the embrace of nature, we spent a mesmerizing sunset amidst the vineyards, marveling at the vast expanse of the starlit sky. The farm provides a dinner basket with the stars box experience, filled with tasty plant-based treats. A bottle of their wine and some amazing olive oil provided a memorable picnic in the tranquility of the countryside. We were surrounded by the beautiful nature of their olive groves and vineyard. We felt a profound connection to the earth and its bountiful offerings. Also, our stay in their beautiful self-catering apartment, “The Nest,” situated about 10km from the farm, was a true retreat, allowing us to unwind and immerse ourselves in this mesmerizing region.

fraz. di, Località Podere Monte Cavallo, 58014 Saturnia GR
Monday to Sunday – 10:00 to 18:00
Available upon prior reservation

While in Maremma, we couldn’t resist the allure of the famous thermal baths of Saturnia. The therapeutic hot springs, surrounded by stunning natural beauty, offered a blissful respite from our culinary adventures. We reveled in the warm waters, indulging in nature’s healing embrace, and emerged feeling rejuvenated and refreshed.

Pietrasanta

Sementis

Our final stop on this incredible journey was Pietrasanta, a charming coastal town renowned for its vibrant art scene. Here, we found solace and culinary delights at Sementis, a fully vegan hotel and restaurant. Sementis is run by a young couple – Masha and Luca. Their dedication to plant-based cuisine and sustainability resonated with us as we savored the flavors of their thoughtfully curated menu. Situated right in the heart of the old town, Sementis is an absolute gem. The rooms are simply yet beautifully restored. They provide a perfect opportunity to further explore this incredible city and the beautiful beaches nearby. They only have 2 rooms, though, so make sure to book early on. You won’t regret it!

Via Garibaldi 17/21, 55045 Pietrasanta Lucca

Monday to Saturday – 19:30 to 23:00
Sunday – 12:00 to 15:00

Modena

Acetai Giusti

Before heading back home, we had to briefly stop in the ancient city of Modena. We discovered the birthplace of the famous balsamic vinegar of Modena. Our visit to “Acetai Giusti” just outside Modena was an extraordinary journey into the world of balsamic vinegar. Acetai Giusti is the oldest producer of balsamic vinegar in the world. It was founded in 1605 and is currently being led by the 17th generation of the family.

We were captivated by an incredible tour of their Acetaia, wandering through their production facilities and ancient aging rooms. Time seemed to stand still. The rich history and craftsmanship behind every drop of balsamic vinegar fascinated us. 

Our knowledgeable guide led us through the intricate process of creating balsamic vinegar. He explained the distinction between the balsamic vinegar of Modena PGI and PGO. The passion and dedication to preserving traditional methods were evident in every detail shared. 

And the pinnacle of our experience was an amazing vinegar tasting! We savored a variety of balsamic vinegars, from delicate and aromatic to bold and rich. The oldest one was a remarkable 50 years old! The flavor was absolutely fascinating, and we were in awe of the complexity and depth of each aged vinegar.

This visit to “Acetai Giusti” left us with a profound appreciation for the artistry and legacy behind balsamic vinegars. A true culinary treasure, preserved through time for generations to come. 

Acetaia Giusti, Strada Quattro Ville, 52,, 41123 Modena (MO) – Italy
Monday to Sunday – 9:00 to 18:00

Heading home

As our unforgettable journey drew to a close, we reflected on the myriad of experiences, and connections we had forged along the way. Each city revealed a unique facet of Italy’s cultural tapestry, while the plant-based restaurants we encountered added a new dimension to our exploration and made us appreciate the nascent creative vegan culinary scene in Italy.

The cities themselves offered a tapestry of sights and experiences. From the medieval splendor of Siena’s Piazza del Campo to the awe-inspiring art collections in Florence’s Uffizi Gallery, we immersed ourselves in history, culture, and artistic heritage. We wandered through the narrow streets, encountering charming cafes, bustling markets, and captivating architecture at every turn. The cities’ vibrant energy and warm hospitality welcomed us with open arms, leaving an indelible imprint on our souls.

Italy has revealed itself as a haven for plant-based explorers, where culinary traditions merge with ethical dining, and the beauty of the land is celebrated through sustainable practices. It was a journey that transcended our expectations, reaffirming our belief that travel and gastronomy can be a force for positive change. We hope you enjoyed following our journey and find this guide useful as you embark on your own plant-based discovery of these magnificent regions.